The short version
- Don’t clean anything.
- Take a few photos with your phone.
- Get one or two free appraisals from real numismatists.
- Compare offers and ask how each was calculated.
- Accept the offer that’s fair and feels right — no pressure.
- Use insured, tracked shipping (or sell in person).
That’s the whole thing. The rest of this article unpacks each step.
Step 1 — Don’t clean anything
This is the most expensive mistake new sellers make. Cleaning a coin damages its original surface in ways graders can spot instantly. A cleaned coin can lose 30–70% of its value compared to the same coin untouched. (We wrote a whole piece on why: Should I clean my coins before selling?)
Same rule for everything they came in: original mint packaging, cardboard 2x2s, plastic flips, PCGS/NGC slabs. Leave it all alone.
Step 2 — Take a few good photos
You don’t need a real camera. A phone is fine. Aim for:
- One wide shot showing the whole collection (or every box / album spread out).
- Close-ups of anything that catches your eye — gold coins, slabbed coins, anything with a date you can read.
- Both sidesof any coin you’re uncertain about. The reverse often tells the bigger story.
- Indirect light, plain background. No flash; no busy patterns under the coin.
You’re not making a magazine spread — you’re giving an expert enough to start from. Five or six photos is plenty.
Step 3 — Get free appraisals from real numismatists
A real numismatist is someone who actually buys and sells coins for a living — usually a member of the ANA (American Numismatic Association), an authorized dealer for PCGS or NGC, or both. Avoid:
- Pawn shops (they’ll quote melt value at best).
- “Cash for gold” storefronts (same problem, more pressure).
- Unsolicited buyers cold-calling you about a “coin opportunity.”
Most reputable dealers — including us — will appraise your collection for free and explain how they got to the number. Getting one or two quotes is healthy; getting five is overkill.
Step 4 — Compare offers and ask how each was calculated
A fair offer is one a buyer is willing to explain. For each piece in your collection, the number should come from one of two places:
- Bullion — weight × purity × live spot price, minus a small dealer margin. Spot prices are public and easy to verify.
- Coins — rarity, condition (grade), and current collector demand. A good appraiser will reference real recent sales for similar coins.
If a buyer can’t or won’t explain how they got to the number, that’s your sign to keep looking.
Step 5 — Accept the offer that’s fair and feels right
Highest dollar offer isn’t always the right one. Process matters: insured shipping, prompt payment, written confirmation, and someone you can actually reach if something goes sideways. Pressure tactics, “decide today,” or wildly different offers without explanation are red flags.
For larger or estate collections we recommend doing the final review in person — most dealers (including us) will travel for it.
Step 6 — Use insured, tracked shipping (or sell in person)
Reputable buyers will pay for fully insured, tracked shipping — usually USPS Registered Mail with declared value, or a courier with an equivalent product. You should never be asked to bear shipping risk yourself.
Payment lands once the items arrive and match the appraisal. From first photo to money in your account is usually one to two weeks.
Common questions
Do I need to sort or organize the collection first?
No — and you can make things worse if you don't know what you're doing. Photograph it as-is and let an appraiser sort it out.
How long does the whole process usually take?
Most sellers go from initial contact to payment within 5–10 business days for mail-in collections, and faster for in-person drop-offs.
Do I have to pay anything up front?
No. The appraisal is free, and we cover insured shipping in both directions.
Related guides
Peace silver dollar values: dates, mintmarks, and grades
Peace dollars (1921–1935) range from $25 to $200,000+ depending on date and grade. The 1921 high relief and 1928 Philadelphia are the keys.
Read →Mercury dime values: key dates, Full Bands, and overdates
Mercury dimes (1916–1945) are 90% silver. The 1916-D is the series key (worth $1,000+); the 1942/1 overdate is the prize variety. Full Bands designations command big premiums.
Read →Buffalo nickel values: Type 1, Three Legs, and missing dates
Buffalo nickels (1913–1938) have classic key dates (1913-S Type 2, 1937-D Three Legs) but many are 'dateless' from wear. Here's how each is priced.
Read →Ready to take Step 3?
Send a few photos and a working numismatist will tell you what your collection is worth — clearly and in plain English. Free, no obligation, no pressure.