1. Online numismatic dealers (what we do)
Best for: most sellers — anything from common 90% silver up through five- and six-figure collections, especially when you want speed and certainty.
What it pays: a fair wholesale price, transparently explained. For bullion, very close to spot; for collector coins, real market value with a small dealer margin.
Time: usually one to two weeks from first photo to money.
Trade-offs: you give up the chance of an aspirational auction high (the rare case where two collectors fight over your coin). In exchange you get certainty, speed, no fees, and a real person who explains every number.
2. Auction houses (Heritage, Stack’s Bowers, etc.)
Best for: high-end individual coins — five figures and up, especially registry-grade rarities — where there’s a realistic chance of competitive bidding.
What it pays: potentially the highest headline price. After fees, often similar to a strong dealer offer.
Time: 60–120 days from consignment to payment (sale is scheduled, marketed, conducted, then settled).
Trade-offs: auction fees on the seller side typically run 0–15%, plus buyer’s premium that pulls down the seller’s effective price. There’s no floor — if interest is weak, the coin sells low or doesn’t sell at all. Best path for a six-figure rarity; overkill for most inherited collections.
3. Local coin shops
Best for: when you want to do it in person and the collection isn’t very large.
What it pays: highly variable. Reputable shops are fair; some shops will under-pay non-collectors hoping you don’t know any better.
Time: same day.
Trade-offs: the offer depends entirely on who’s behind the counter that afternoon. Always good to have at least one comparison offer (online dealer is the easiest source).
4. eBay and online marketplaces
Best for: if you’re willing to photograph, list, ship, and handle questions for every single coin — and you actually know what you have.
What it pays: retail prices, minus eBay’s ~13% final-value fee and shipping costs.
Time: weeks to months, depending on inventory size.
Trade-offs: the work is real. Inexperienced sellers routinely give away valuable coins by misidentifying them, and returns / chargebacks on coin transactions are a known headache. Strongly not recommended for inherited collections unless you’re already a collector.
5. Pawn shops, “cash for gold,” jewelry buyers
Avoid for anything beyond bullion melt. These businesses are set up to buy metal by weight; numismatic value will not be reflected in the offer. If your collection has any rare or graded coins, you’ll leave significant money on the table.
The actual right answer for most people
For most inherited or accumulated collections — under, say, $50,000 — a reputable online numismatic dealer is the highest-value, lowest-hassle path. For a single museum-grade rarity, an auction house. For everything else, the marginal effort of eBay rarely pays for itself.
Whatever you choose, the smartest first step is one or two free appraisals so you know what you actually have. We do them every day with no obligation.
Common questions
Will an auction always get me more than a dealer?
Sometimes — at the very high end. For most collections, auction fees (often 15–25%) plus delay erase the headline difference vs. a direct dealer offer.
Is eBay a safe place to sell rare coins?
It's risky for inexperienced sellers — chargebacks, fakes, and shipping insurance disputes are common, and selling fees run about 13–15%.
How fast can a dealer pay me?
Typically same-day to 48 hours after the coins arrive and an offer is accepted. We pay by ACH, wire, or check at your preference.
Related guides
Peace silver dollar values: dates, mintmarks, and grades
Peace dollars (1921–1935) range from $25 to $200,000+ depending on date and grade. The 1921 high relief and 1928 Philadelphia are the keys.
Read →Mercury dime values: key dates, Full Bands, and overdates
Mercury dimes (1916–1945) are 90% silver. The 1916-D is the series key (worth $1,000+); the 1942/1 overdate is the prize variety. Full Bands designations command big premiums.
Read →Buffalo nickel values: Type 1, Three Legs, and missing dates
Buffalo nickels (1913–1938) have classic key dates (1913-S Type 2, 1937-D Three Legs) but many are 'dateless' from wear. Here's how each is priced.
Read →Start with a free appraisal.
Even if you decide to auction or list yourself, knowing what your collection is actually worth is the foundation of every other decision.